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Post by Krueggs81 on Dec 30, 2012 22:35:19 GMT -6
WINTER-SLAM 2013 will be held in Garden City mn, feb 9th with snow date of feb 16th 2pm start time.
(ALL FEATURED EVENTS, NO HEATS) TROPHIES TOP 5 IN EVERY CLASS
classes this year will include: FULLSIZE (weld) PAYS 10 PLACES- 35 CARS MAX.-------------CLASS IS FULL------- $1500, $1000, $500, $300, $150, $100, $75, $60, $60, $60.
80s (CHAIN)- PAYS 10 PLACES- 35 CARS MAX-----------CLASS IS FULL------ $1000, $750, $400, $300, $150, $100, $75, $60, $60, $60,
TRUCKS (weld) PAYS 8 PLACES- 30 MAX, $1000, $600, $300, $150, $100, $75, $60, $60.
FWD 108 AND UNDER (chain) PAYS 8 PLACES- 30 MAX. $700, $400, $200, $150, $100, $75, $60, $60
HARDEST HITTERS IN EVERY CLASS- $300 PLUS TROPHY.
BEST PAINT- $100 PLUS PLAQUE
LONGEST TOW $100- 2ND LONGEST $75
swap meet will be held again aswell- HEATED indoor spots and outside spots will be aval. more info to come shortly.
all last years drivers will get first chance to reserve spot UNTIL OCT 15TH before new drivers accepted.
HOTEL INFO- ALL PRICES BASED ON TWO QUEEN BEDS AND MILEGE FROM WOW ZONE WHERE THE AFTER PARTY WILL BE HELD.
ASK FOR WINTER DERBY BLOCK
MICROTEL INN 507-388-2818 $71.99 2.5 MILES
COMFORT INN 507-388-5107 $95.00 4 BLOCKS
COUNTRY INN SUITES 507-388-8555 $95.00 1 MILE
HOLIDAY INN EXPRESS 507-388-1880 $99.00 RIGHT ACCROSS THE STREET.
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Post by Krueggs81 on Dec 31, 2012 8:51:43 GMT -6
-----------------------------------------WINTER-SLAM---------------------------------------------------- FEB 9TH 2013—2PM START-----SNOW DATE OF FEB 16TH
MUST BE IN INSPECTION LINE NO LATER THAN 12 PM OR $50.00 INSPECTION FEE WILL BE ASSESSED.
PIT GATE WILL OPEN AT 9 AM
CLASSES INCLUDE:
FULLSIZE (WELD) 35 max____________NO FRAME REPAIR TRUCK (WELD) 30 max______________ FWD 108 wb (chain) 30 max______________ 80’S CHAIN 35 max_______________ NO FRAME REPAIR (CHECK CLASS OF ENTRY)
DRIVER NAME:_______________________________________
PHONE NUMBER:______________________________________
CAR NUMBER:________________________
YEAR, MAKE, MODEL:___________________________________________________
ADDRESS:_____________________________________________________________
E-MAIL:_________________________________________________________________
DRIVERS SIGNATURE:______________________________________________________
ABSOLUTELY NO REFUNDS ON ANY ENTRY FEE OR ANY REASON UNLESS CLASS IS FILLED PRIOR TO YOUR ENTRY!! $60 entry fee- Last year’s drivers may mail in directly to reserve spot, any others will not be accepted until Oct. 15th will go off postmark if reach max capacity on certain date. Mail to: R&M PROMOTIONS P.O. BOX 15 MAPLETON, MN 56065
Trophy’s top 5 in each class Hardest hitter $300 plus trophy in each class Longest tow=$100.00------------2nd longest tow $75.00 Best paint $100 plus plaque. First 35 in line can pit in pit area, after that will have to park outside pit area. ALL CARS/TRUCKS WILL BE INSPECTED AND LINED UP AND WILL NOT BE ABLE TO WORK ON AFTER INSPECTION!!!
CONTACT NUMBER: Randy Mosloski (507) 327-1944
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Post by Krueggs81 on Dec 31, 2012 8:52:05 GMT -6
COMPACT/MID-SIZE 108 WB AND UNDER FWD ONLY
1. All doors and trunk lids may be fastened shut by 3 strands #9 wire, or 3/8 chains, NO BINDERS (4 locations per door and trunk lid) on the outside door seams, top of trunk lid only, NO TAPE unless used as one of your locations and no more than 2 inches wide. Drivers door may be reinforced and welded for drivers safety. No wire in window openings, or roof to floor, SEAMS only! 2. Two front cradle mounts may be removed and use ¾ bolt to bolt solid, rest of frame and mounts must be stock only without any added bolts, wire or welding. 3. Bumpers must be wired, chained, two locations to frame or to hood (outlined in hood fastening), bumpers may be replaced with “like era” bumpers, NO 60s or 70s bumpers allowed, examples allowed are 80s caprice, mustang, crown vic, ect. Must be 80s bumper and trimmed down to edge of front fenders, May cap ends with the chrome liner u trim off and put one pass of 3/8 wide weld to close ends of bumper only with the metal that the bumper comes with, no adding metal. Must remain stock other than outlined, no welding other seams or loaded bumpers, if there are no vent holes in bumper for inspection u must cut inspection hole on end of bumper for inspecting, no double skinning, Fiber glass or rubber bumper cover must be removed, . 4. Cutting fenders for tire clearance is allowed, no bolting or welding of fenders. 5. Tucking the trunk lid is allowed fastened on top of lid only, may crease trunk 4 inches max in middle from stock location, fenders must stay upright, body creasing and tuck can be done, no more than 50% of panel. 6. Hoods may be fastened shut with (3 strands) #9 wire or chain (3/8) in a max. in 6 locations to sheet metal only, (two may go to bumper) locations may not connect together, must be separate. Hoods will have holes large enough for fire extinguisher access and must be open for inspection. no bolting or screws in hood openings. (All bumpers MUST have two wires or chains holding bumper from falling off) may go to hood or trunk lid to secure, but counts as one of your hood or trunk locations. 7. Engines may be wired, chained, in two locations, and can go around frame one loop only, 4 or 6 cyl. engine, must be stock for vehicle. 8. Stock axles, with no bracing or modifying of brackets. No 4wd or awd one must be disabled. 9. Body mounts, suspension, and shocks must be stock only, may weld front strut shaft to strut to gain height with no added metal. NO REINFORCING STRUT! 10. Transmission coolers are not allowed unless came factory, may alter transmission linkage, modified ignition switches, and headers are allowed. 11. Any ply tire allowed, stuffed ok, Stem protectors allowed, wheel weights must be removed. May add an outer flap (extra sidewall) to outer side of tire for protection. May screw or glue beads to rims. 12. Fuel tanks must be removed and located in back seat securely fastened, no bungee straps, and completely covered with a nonflammable material. If running electric fuel pump, power source must be well labeled (fuel pump) in large bold lettering. 13. One battery allowed and must be moved to passenger front seat, securely fastened, no bungee straps, and covered with a nonflammable item. 14. Safety bars in or on top of the dash, and behind seat are MANDITORY with a max. 8’x8” mounting plate. 4 inch diameter max. material, may connect dash to seatbar with no down bars to floor. U may run roof (halo) bar but can only be attached to seat bar, may not attach to floor. All cage material can be no further forward than firewall, and not further rearwards of the most forward side of rear wheel well tubs. (2 WINDSHIELD BARS OR #9 WIRE) Added bars in front of the driver from the front cowl up to the roof will be MANDITORY 2 inch max diameter. to keep hood from coming into drivers compartment, attachment point bolted or welded no more than 5 inch square, may also have drivers door window netting. No rear window bars allowed, no wire in any other window openings, no wire from roof to any location other than specified. 15. Boundaries will be observed at all times. No deliberate pushing out of bounds. 16. Two fires allowed before elimination. 17. Stock cooling systems only. 18.FRONT BUMPER FASTENING (NO WELDING ONE INCH PAST END OF FRAME) can be done in ONLY 1 OF THESE FOLLOWING 3 WAYS: U are allowed to cut crush zone out on end of front stubs will be allowed to re-fasten factory bolting tabs back on with limitation of no welding 1 inch from end of frame, no homemade brackets or added metal allowed. #1.(HARDNOSE) u may use 1x1 inch angle iron ¼ in thick or less to weld one inch width of angle to frame and one inch width to bumper on 4 sides of frame. # 2.(STOCK SHOCK) bumper bolted to shock and welded around bolt flange- shock bolted to frame with one pass of weld around factory bolt tabs, shock may be welded solid. #3 (HOME-MADE BRACKET) may use max. 13 inch long, 3x3 hollow tubing , ¼ in thickness welded to bumper and slid inside frame and BOLTED only, u may weld tabs of angle to steel tube for bolting purposes to bolt to end of frame, all fasten points to frame must be bolted, u will be allowed to use front cradle mount bolt to fasten through tubing, OR u may install one- 3/4in. bolt with no larger than 1-1/2 washers horizontally through side of frame and tubing to secure, only one extra bolt can be used other than factory frame end rail bolts. If u cut factory tabs off frame u may weld them back on, no homemade, no added metal. If you use #3 to install bumper there MUST be a min. ½ in hole in frame after end of steel tube for inspection, this will be measured and scoped!!!!
1. IF THE RULES DO NOT SAY IT DO NOT ASSUME THAT YOU CAN DO IT, THIS IS A LOW BUDGET CLASS!!! JUDGES DECISION IS FINAL!!!
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Post by Krueggs81 on Dec 31, 2012 9:30:32 GMT -6
FULLSIZE AND TRUCK RULES
2013 RULES AND REGULATIONS questions reguarding rules call Randy (507-327-1944) General Rules ***If car does not pass inspection or driver is unwilling to change car to pass inspection - absolutely no refunds!! 1. All rules will be followed, or you will not run!! 2. Any sedan or station wagon can be run. No 1973 or Older Imperials, Imperial sub-frames, ambulances, hearses, limousines, etc… 3. Ages 14 –17 must have a notarized permission slip. 4. The person that signs in as the driver/passenger- must be the driver/passenger for that event! 5. Driver must wear seat belt and helmet, along with eye protection. 6. ALL drivers and crewmembers must attend the drivers meeting. 7. DO NOT hit the driver’s door! Sometimes this happens, but if it looks intentional or carelessness, you will be disqualified. Don’t use your door as a shield; it may cause you to get disqualified. 8. No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle. 9. Any open driver’s door or fire will cause disqualification. If in heat, you may fix it and come back in the consolation. 10. NO sandbagging or holding!!! You will be disqualified!!! 11. You are given 20 seconds for aggressive hits, 1 minute for restarts and 1 minute if you are hung up. 12. No alcohol in the pits, if anyone is caught with alcohol, they will be disqualified, this includes their pit crew. 13. Cars are subject to re-inspection before any prize money is handed out. 14. Any controversies will be taken up at the drivers meeting. 15. Any questions give us a call! If it doesn’t say you can do it, don’t do it. Call 1st!! 16. Judges decisions are FINAL!!! Car Preparation 1. All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules. 2. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby. 3. All decking in station wagons MUST be removed!!! 4. Rims no bigger than 16.5 inch, 3/8 thick WELD IN CENTERS ALLOWED for WELD cars and trucks, Outside ring of rim must be stock, No duals, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled or Doubled tires OK-we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors OK. Tires may be screwed to rims. 5. Driver must have a fire coat or non-flammable jacket to wear while driving in event. 6. Driver must have safety approved glasses or face shield. Driver needs to have FULL faced helmets. 7. You may run a stock radiator or radi-barrel. Radi-barrel must have some sort of pressure release valve, or you will not run! Radi-barrels: NO WELDING of radi-barrels to the car at all! May be bolted in 6 spots to core support. Stock radiator:If you run a stock radiator, you may use 1/4" max thickness material in front or the back of radiator only (has to be mounted to the the core support), The material can be 2" bigger than the radiator on all sides. May be bolted in 6 spots but no welding of material at all. 8. All cars must have working brakes. 9. A-arms, ball joints remain stock. 10. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed. 11. Original gas tanks must be removed.You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell and it must be properly secured (no ratchet straps or bungees to hold the tank in place) and covered. No gas cans. Plastic gas tanks must be placed in a metal box!! Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat, use to be. If tank is mounted to the cage it must be at least 6" from any part of the car body. Tank must be bolted to sheet metal or seat bay only, not frame! ***12. Gas tank protectors are allowed in sedans only, no wider than 24 inches in center of car, must be at least 1” away from rear sheet metal, DO NOT POUND SHEET METAL. This may angle straight back from rear seat bar in center of car and must be 8” off the floor. Gas tank can’t be connected to protector unless gas tank is mounted to top of protector and not to floor. Protector must be free floating- not connected to anything but back bar! 13. Transmission coolers will be allowed, but must be bolted to sheet metal only not frame! 14. Batteries must be moved to passenger floorboard close to transmission. It must be properly secured and covered. Battery must be in a Battery Box, and bolted to sheet metal only not frame! 15. You must have a number In Bright colors on each front door and must have 15”x 15” roof sign with car number on it for judging and recognition of car. NO EXCESSIVE WASHERS. Car building: WELDING: 1. Only the Outside of Doors, may be welded solid with 3 inch wide straps x 3/16 inch thick or smaller fill materials. Top of doors may be rolled over and welded with no added materials. If you decide not to weld, then you are allowed to chain/bolt/wire them shut with UNLIMITED use of chain/bolts/wires. 2. You can weld frame seam from the front of the A-arms forward top side only! You are allowed 16" of additional frame seam welding (full size cars only-) from 2" behind the firewall/dash mounts forward to back of A-arm per frame rail, this will be measured and crush box seam welds will account for this. The frame seam weld can't be larger than 1/2" wide or it will be cut!! The uni-body is considered the frame on Mopars and Suicide Lincolns, which it means No bolting, or welding the seam. NO FRAME SHAPING OR MANIPULATING OF FRAMES THEY MUST REMAIN STOCK !!!! minimal shaping allowed at humps 10 inches max. each direction of center. 3. **For driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, you may also have a bar across your dash (must be 6" min. away from center of firewall), no straps from dashbar to firewall allowed, may use two locations of wire. you may connect the dash bar to seat bar across the inside of front doors, You may have a roll loop behind the seat, or attached to seat bar which must be welded to the floor (NOT FRAME) and welded or bolted to the roof – no kickers going to the back or front of the car. Back of cage including roll bar, can only be 10” from back of seat. You will be allowed 2 down bars on the inside on driver’s door going down from the inside cross bar. Also allowed 2 down bars on the inside of the passenger's front door to floor, not to the frame or body mount. Outside or inside of drivers door only, can be reinforced not to exceed 6 inches past each seam. . you may also weld your steering column in. (6" maximum diameter on all cage material, no piece longer than 60 inches in length may be used.) NO CONTOURED PIECES. ALL CAGE MATERIAL MUST BE A MINIMUM OF 8" FROM FLOOR, TRANS TUNNEL MUST HAVE MIN. OF 6 INCHES FROM DASH-BAR. 1. Bumpers: Bumpers are interchangeable. Any Automotive bumper and bumper brackets may be used on any car (Only 1 set of brackets may be used). No homemade bumper brackets. You can weld bumper brackets and towers to the frame NO WELDING OR BOLTING FURTHER THAN 4 INCHES BEHIND CORE SUPPORT. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock towers. You can collapse shocks and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with 1/2 inch bolt or less and it must be done vertically. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding on the bumper skins together (chrome to inner liner of bumper) is allowed. When welding bumpers to the shocks and brackets – do not add any metal. Weld shocks and brackets solid if you wish. Weld them well; we don’t want any bumpers falling off! Bumper height 28" to the top of the bumper. Chrysler “Y” frame cars will be allowed to weld a 5”x9”x ¼” plate on the top or bottom of the “Y” opening. No bumper brackets will be allowed if the plate is used. 2. Bumpers may be welded to end of frame with no added metal, just use the welder. Rear bumper may have 2 straps, 2- chains or 2-wires (4 loops) from trunk deck or tailgate to bumper (not frame). You can only have 1 of the 3 used, NOT all 3! Straps can be up to 3” wide and no more than 5” on the bumper and 5” on the trunk or tailgate. Straps may be up to ¼” thick. You are allowed wire from radiator support to front bumper in 4 locations. 3. Stock appearing bumpers!!! We will allow you to take any bumper apart. Weld any material you would like up to 5 inch max depth material to the inside of the bumper chrome skin, weld the chrome skin back into place. Metal inside of the bumper must fit the contour of the stock outer chrome! No changing angles of skin or u will not run! HOOD/TRUNKS: 1. **Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in cast of fire. You are allowed 12 extra- 3/8” bolts to bolt your hood skins (NOT TRUNK SKIN) back together. You will be allowed 8 hood bolts; you MUST have at least 4 hood bolts. You may have up to 1” all thread, 2 may be used from the hood down to the frame sleeved with up to 1 ¼” diameter material max. (must go through the front body mounts.) The top 5” of all thread may be welded to radiator support. Chrysler products may run all thread behind radiator support down to top of frame and be welded to top of frame welded with no added material. Rods may pass through frame. All remaining 6 hood bolts must be sheet metal to sheet metal. Hood must be open for inspection. Plates for hood bolts cannot exceed 5"x5"x1/2". Hood bolts can be up to 1 inch in diameter. 2. You can fold hoods or trunk decks over but 60% of the hood or trunk lid must be in factory location. No tucking of wagon roof on Leaf spring wagons. 80’s & newer wagons may tuck roof down with 4 spots (these may not be connected in any way... must remain 4 separate spots) holding the roof down to the car body only—NOT Frame(up to 1" bolt, 3/8" chain or wire)!
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Post by Krueggs81 on Dec 31, 2012 9:31:05 GMT -6
3. 2 - 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to frame, MUST go through body mount hole or can be welded to the side of the frame, or you may use wire in 2 spots with 4 loops from trunk lid and may go around the frame with the wire. CAN’T DO BOTH!! Top trunk lid seams may be welded solid, or unlimited bolting with no bigger than 3/8 bolts.Wagon tailgates maybe welded solid outside only with no bigger than 3"x 3/16" strap, and you can have 1 threaded rod no bigger than 1" from taillight opening to taillight opening only. BODY MOUNTS: 1.Body spacers can be removed and frame can be tight to the body. 2. Body mount bolts can be replaced with 1” bolts, Bolts may extend through body and have up to a 5”x 5” x ¼”thick washer on top. Bolt must be up inside of frame as factory and may have larger washer inside of frame (no longer than 5"). Washers inside frame may not be used as a gusset! If there is factory rubber mount without a body bolt, you can add the bolt to the mount.3. A 3” diameter 1/8” washer can be welded to the top of the frame over any body mount hole.
SUSPENSION: 1. Suspension must be at stock height. Leaf springs must be stock, you may add one spring as long as the main leaf spring (9 leaf maximum), you can't wrap the added leaf spring to make a double main - tow packages OK. The Main leaf spring must be the top spring in the spring pack and leaf springs must stagger down with at least a 2 inch stagger from longest to smallest. You can re-clamp springs, 6 clamps per side homemade or factory. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4 inch. You can put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height. You can bolt or wire coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them from becoming unbolted. You can loop chain or wire from rear end to frame in 2 spots on each side. No bigger than #9 wire or 3/8”chain or cable may be used. 2. Mopars can weld mounting brackets to uni-body where leaf springs are mounted factory to uni-body frame. 3. Rear-end control arms may be reinforced, but must be workable. They may be shortened or made longer as well. (Homemade ok.) 4. Use rear end of choice, You can tilt rear end if you wish. Welded or posi-track highly recommended 5. Rear-end Housings may be re-enforced. Hybrid AND 8 lug full floater rear-ends are allowed. Rear end brace cannot extend more than 6 inches off the stock housing. *****6. Front A-arms may be bolted, chained or welded down to get your bumper height. If welding- 2 flat straps, 2” on frame and 2” on A-arm, do not weld arm solid. SUSPENSION for 1977 & Newer GM and 80 & Newer Ford cars running with the old iron: 1.You may leaf these types of cars. If you do not convert to leafs, you are allowed a 1/4" thick by 22" long hump plate, this must follow the contour of the hump , centered and welded with one pass of 1/4" weld. This plate must be welded to the outside only, match the factory hump and not span the center of the hump. Do not weld any seams on the rear of the car! If you leaf an 80's wagon you cannot tuck the roof or run hump plates! All full-size k-frame MOPARS may run the k-frame tight to the frame and weld them together with no more than three 4"x4"x1/4" plates per side. 2.Same leaf spring rules apply as factory leaf cars. 3.Rear mount 6"x6"x1/4" shackle, welded to or bolted thru the frame 4.Front eyelet mount may be as follows: In trailing arm bracket, with 3"x3"x1/4" gusset or box welded to the frame 4"x6"x1/4" maximum. 5. Springs may be mounted above or below the axle. No all-thread struts if running shocks. Must be of factory automotive type leaf springs. ENGINE MOUNTING: 1. Engine mounts may be welded to factory engine cradle. 2. Use motor and tranny of choice, motor must be within 5 inches of stock location. You may chain motor and tranny to keep in place (don’t strengthen the frame). All cars must use stock engine cradles for the year of the car. 3. You may have 2 flat straps 2 inch wide 3/16 max thickness flat strap from the motor head directly to frame, TOP SIDE OF FRAME only next to A-arm on front side of motor and can be welded only the 2 inch width of strap, 2 inches of length no adding plate to frame. If this is used to re-enforce frame, straps will be cut! OR u may use 2- 3/8 chain and bolt around frame-rail, no bolting to frame rail, or u may go down to factory engine cradle and weld or bolt. DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTORS/CRADLES: Hood bolts must be 3 inches min. stagger to outside of window bars, window bars must be atleast 6 inches to the outside of the dp. - If you run a DP do not mount your dash bar closer than 6 inches of the firewall/cowl, or YOU WILL NOT RUN. no complete engine protector system. If you use a front plate it may not be gusseted to header flanges or other components in any manner. -Distributor protectors allowed, must be attached to engine or transmission only, back side must be no wider than 12 inches, must not contact cage before, during or after the event. It may not be welded, bolted or connected to body, hood or frame. Forward supports must be inside normally positioned headers and not extend past the water pump. - Aftermarket Distributor protectors, cradles and pulley protectors are allowed. These must be separate items and may not all be connected for a No “extreme” engine systems. -You may beat flat the engine side of the firewall only, do not weld or bolt firewall. Do not re-enforce the firewall/cowl. Do not beat, paint, bolt, weld on, weld to or modify the driver’s side of the firewall/cowl in any way. Transmission protectors rules- -They may attach to the transmission bell housing or mid plate. Mid plate may not connect, or come close to frame or will be cut, and connot connect to engine cradle. -They may not rise more than 1 inch above the highest point of the bell housing, including the attachment point. -They may be no wider than the transmission at the top, way less than 12" for sure. -They may not be a continuous plate from distributor protector down. -They may not attach or brace to the cross member, frame, or any part of the cage components. -They may be fabricated of tubing or round stock of no greater OD than 3/4. If flat material is used, it can be no thicker than 3/8. These components may not be used in tandem to create a material thicker than either of these measurements. -The protector may attach to the tails shaft or shifter bracket. If the judges determine that this brace re-enforces the car in any way, you will be required to make relief cuts in your tranny tunnel, we will not require you to remove it completely for safety reasons. If your tranny protector is against, or will be against tranny crossmember, or not in stock location, stock size, u will not compete. May not cut and reweld trans tunnel, must stay factory!
STEERING: 1. Tie-rods ends must be stock, but the center can be re-enforced, A-arms, ball joints and all other steering/suspension must remain stock. 2. You may alter your steering column to prevent loss of steering. Steering knuckles, homemade steering shafts, etc. FENDERS: 1. You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may also be bolted together with 12-3/8” bolts or less, Outside sheet metal only. The rear quarter panel is considered part of the rear fender. MISC: 1. For safety, you are allowed 1 FLAT strap in each door window opening straps can be 2” wide – ¼” thick and can be welded 5” on the door & 5” on the roof. Rear window bar can be 2” square tubing with a plate size no larger than 5"x5"x1/4" thick, and must be welded within 5” of window track, ANY METAL BEYOND 5 INCHES OF BOTTOM TRACK WILL BE CUT! You may not use wire if you use straps ** Hardtop no-post cars may have another strap at the door post. You must have 2 bars 2 inch wide flat, round, or square, x 3/8 thick max. 18 inches apart on bottom (not connected if running dp with firewall intact) in windshield from roof to top of firewall for safety reasons, must be a minimum of 6 inches outside of Dist. cap protector. Must be a minimum of 5" of space between front window bar & roof sign & rear window bars. Nothing from front window bars protruding over hood. 2. You can run shifter through floor and you can have a switch panel. You may also have a hand throttle. If you are running an electric fuel pump – must be hooked up to your ignition switch – so when your car shuts off – it shuts off. 3. You are allowed 2 spots with 4 loops of wire (no cable or chain) in each window opening and may go to the frame. NO WELDING WASHERS around holes on car body. Can not be attached to cage. 4. You may run wire from frame rail to frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear-end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain/cable in 1 spot only. This must go around the frame, this cannot be bolted to the frame. 5. You are allowed to bolt, or weld Factory body seams together, Not hood, trunk lid, tailgate, or door seams. The uni-body is considered the frame on Mopars and Suicide Lincolns which it means No bolting, or welding the seam. 6. No painting or undercoating of frames, or use of chemicals, u will not be inspected. 7. No re-enforcing steel on tranny tunnel!! 8. We reserve the right to drill a 1/2" hole in frame to scope. RUST REPAIR body only 1. You may repair rusted out sheet metal with sheet metal only same thickness. Leave the rust in place and repair over it 2 inches past rusted out area.
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Post by Krueggs81 on Dec 31, 2012 9:33:13 GMT -6
ADDITIONAL TRUCK RULES 1/2 ton up to 1 ton plus SUBURBANS above car build rules apply.
1.Any stock truck or automotive car bumper and bumper brackets may be used on the front and rear of the vehicle. Bumpers may be re-enforced on the inside only. If you are reinforcing a factory truck bumper, the bumper must remain flat, car bumper skins must remain factory not changing any angles and must have the outer skin welded in place (meaning you may not change the contour of the bumper). max bumper material depth of 5 inches. Bumpers and bumper brackets may be welded to frame. From the end of the frame back 8 inches may be re-enforced, nothing bigger that 8" long and as wide as the frame is tall piece may be used. No connecting the frame rails to each other with added materials!! You may also have 2-4" wide by 8" long by 1/4" straps on the front and rear bumpers. Bumper height 30" to the top of the bumper. 2.Tailgate may be welded inside & out with no more than 3" wide by 3/16" thick can be welded solid. 3. If you choose to fold box sides over, it must be done behind rear wheels. 4.You may run a 4x4 but must remove one of the driveshafts. 5. If you choose, you may rebolt or chain the box in 6 spots additional to the stock bolts with up to 1" threaded rod or 3/8" chain.(This can be welded to the frame) Plate size is limited to 6"x 6" x 1/4". May be sleeved with up to 2" diameter material. 6. May tie the box to the cab using 1" threaded rod in four places.Maximum plate size of 6"x6"x1/4". The cab and box may be welded together and you may use a fill material to fill the gap between the cab and box. 7. All factory seams in the box only can be welded with 2”x2”x1/4” angle iron, or 3” strap 8. Any tire is allowed on a rim no bigger than 16.5" 3/8 weld in centers allowed, No split rims. 9. Any bracing can be used inside the cab of the truck. A 4 point cage is required. The bracing can connect to the frame anywhere within the cab BUT CAN NOT GO PAST THE FIREWALL. Bracing can not go more than 12" behind the driver's seat. 10. A 6" diameter rollover loop will be allowed with 2 kickers (4 point). This loop can be connected to the cab, or cage. The 2 kickers must come from the top of the loop down to a location no further back than the leaf-spring mount. This loop can be bolted to the floor, or welded directly to the frame on the plates no larger than 8"x8". 11. All coolers, or gas tanks must be mounted in front of the front leaf spring mount. 12.No more than 13 leaf springs per stack, no stagger needed. 13. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed. 14. May tuck roof down in 4 spots (these may not be connected in any way...must remain 4 separate spots) to hold the roof down to the body only, not frame. May use up to 1" bolts, 3/8" chain, or wire. 15. Additional metal between the frame and axle up to 4 inch diameter will be allowed to gain height, must be done vertical and not connecting each side, may be welded in. Bumpers must be under 30” height. 16. 12-3/8, or 6-3/4 bolts can be used on each side of the box to bolt it together with plates not to exceed 5’x5’x 1/4” 17. You can have a 3”x3” angle or square tube across your Radiator support with 2 kickers (3”x3”) attached to the frame in front of the front axle to the top side of the frame only! 18. Any pre 1970 truck frame must be under 7 ½” in height. 19. Bent frames may be repaired with 1/4 inch metal 1 inch past the bend, but only on 1 side of the frame. The patch may be welded solid on the outside, no plug welding, You can only repair the frame once in each place. No re-patching or layering of patches, no boxing of frames. 20. Truck motors may have 4 locations from motor to top of frame 2 in max diameter material for engine tie downs.
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Post by Krueggs81 on Dec 31, 2012 9:34:19 GMT -6
80S CHAIN DRIVER LIST
#33 JAY OBERG - COTTAGE GROVE MINN #46 GARY PESICKA- BURT IOWA #00 NATE KNECHT - CHARLES CITY IOWA #22 DALLAS ANDERSON - ISANTI MINN #7X JERMEY ADAMS - CLAYTON WI #44H MATT HOFFBECK - PRIOR LAKE MINN #44 LEONARD STOCK - MORA MINN #5X JONATHAN MEWES - CLAYTON WI #88 TOM SMITH - ST. AUGUSTA MINN #86H MICHAEL HOFFBECK - PROIR LAKE MINN #78 CASEY SMITH - ST. AUGUSTA MINN #52 DUSTIN DIETRICH - THORP WI #31 JOEY LAGRANDER - STANLEY WI #4X MIKE LEWIS - DALLAS WI #14 MIKE VAN WESTEN - SIBLEY IOWA #57X JAKE ABRAMACZEK - THORP WI #13E ERIC ESSARY - ALGONA IOWA #1X JACOB EVERTS - DECORAH IOWA #57 KOLLIN LANGE - WINTHROP MINN #448 JACOB PRUISMANN - WEBSTER CITY IOWA #38 MARK ISENBERG - NEW ULM MINN #003 STEVE MOEN - PRAIRE FARM WI #142 JEROMEY SHARP - WADENA MN #2X JAKE MARTENS - THORP WI #81 SHANE LEIST - ROCKWELL CITY IOWA #48 MARK PRUISMANN - WEBSTER CITY IOWA #33 JAMES LIND - BRAHAM MN #69 BRUCE JOHNSON - KAMBRIDGE MINN #1J JESSE ASMUSSEN - DALBO MINN # 11X COLTON NEUHALFEN - BLUE EARTH MINN #83 CHRIS NUEMAN - RUSH CITY MINN #3 ALEXANDER CUTSHALL - ALLISON IOWA #50 JON BRAND - NORTH MANKATO #01X NICK GADE - TITONKA IOWA #110 MITCH DONAHUE - LITCHFIELD MINN
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Post by Krueggs81 on Dec 31, 2012 9:34:47 GMT -6
FULL SIZE WELD DRIVERS LIST:
#13 TOM SPELLMEYER - WEBSTER CITY IOWA #54 TRIG LAASE - CAMBRIDGE MINN #46H ADAM HOFFBECK - RANDOLPH MINN #120 RUSS THOMPSON - DECORAH IOWA #4T TREVOR HENRICH - WILLMAR MINN #49 ROB GOLDEN - RAMSEY MINN #7 RYAN JONES - BEMIDJI MINN #21 BRANDON JOHNSON - CANNON FALLS MINN #7X SAM BANDOW - ONAMIA MINN #187 SCOTT TEMPEL - KAMRAR IOWA #743 TOREY SONNENBERG - VERGAS MINN # 33 RAYMOND STOECKER - NICOLLET MINN #21Z CURT ZAZHARIAS - RICHVILLE MINN #62 TROY IVERSON - DORAN MINN #10K KELLY BLADOW - DORAN MINN #11X COLTON NEUHALFEN - BLUE EARTH MINN #44 CHRIS JOHNSON - ELBOW LAKE MINN #70 ERIC CRIBB - CAMPBELL MINN #99B JUSTIN BLADOW - DORAN MINN #23 MARVIN MILLER - HOWARD LAKE MINN #89 CHANCE LANGFORD - BLUE EARTH MINN #26 GUY SKILES - HOWARD LAKE MINN #12T TRENT BRUTGER - WATKINS MINN #60X NEILL JERRY - DEER RIVER MINN #10 BARD DARLING - NICOLLET MINN #27 NATE WESTERBERG - FERGUS FALLS MINN #73X LELAND MEYERS - CHEROKEE IOWA #818 TRAVIS DIERS - HOWARD LAKE MINN #68 KARSON DIXON - LIGNITE ND. # 72 CJ ZACHARIAS - LAKE PARK MINN #16 JOHN VOGEL - UNDERWOOD MINN #96 SCOTT SHEID - WINNEBAGO MINN # M42 BRANDON THEISEN - SIOUX CITY IOWA #07 JASON PAGEL - CANNON FALLS MINN #21D DANIEL OHRT- LE MARS IA
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Post by noser23x on Dec 31, 2012 14:07:52 GMT -6
This should be a very fun hard hitting show, with the only downside being the cold. I personally cant wait!
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Post by Krueggs81 on Dec 31, 2012 14:23:01 GMT -6
Its was cold last year and then the next day we were working on cars in just long sleeve shirts!!
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Post by racer20m on Jan 2, 2013 9:15:32 GMT -6
Just spend more time in the heated beer tent ;D wishfull thinking boys, itll be in the 30s with light flurries to complete the winter effect, lol.
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Post by Krueggs81 on Jan 2, 2013 9:52:45 GMT -6
6 inches of snow on the track would make it interesting!
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Post by noser23x on Jan 2, 2013 15:01:02 GMT -6
I actually think that would be pretty sweet. Just letting the first timers know, if you think your wearing enough your probably wrong ;D. I think the flurries would be pretty sweet and 30s would be cool
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Post by racer20m on Jan 6, 2013 9:48:12 GMT -6
LOOKING FOR VENDORS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
We will be having the swap meet/ vendor booth sales again this year starting at 10 am, as many people enjoyed the extra aspect of the show, a place to keep warm throughout the day, or simply socialize while others made a little $$$$$.
If any one is interested in bringing some stuff, or wants to set up a booth to sell your products/ merchandise inside the heated building or outside there will be a small fee of $50 for a heated indoor spot or $25 for outside truck and trailor spot to help cover our heat and snow removal expenses to provide this area for everyone to enjoy. please let us know asap your interested so we can cordinate and make sure we reserve enough room to fit your needs.
Please contact Jeremy Ertman 507-525-4290 as he is cordinating or myself (Randy) at 507-327-1944 to reserve a spot, thanks!
ONLY MONTH AWAY ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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tim42
Rookie
BIG COTTONWOOD RANCH
Posts: 11
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Post by tim42 on Jan 6, 2013 10:54:58 GMT -6
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